Monday, November 10, 2014

Quick Solution Pest Control Brooklyn Pest Control 


Heard of rats sniffing landmines?

Similar in appearance to the Norway rat is the Gambian pouched rat that can grow up to 15 lb. That's about the size of an average house cat! In Africa, it is used to detect landmines due to its intelligent and flexible nature. It moves over the landmines without detonating them.

Wild rats are of two types: the roof rat or black rat (Rattus rattus) and the brown or Norway rat (Rattus norvegicus), of the Rattus genus. They belong to the order Rodentia and are members of the Muridae family. These species are also known as the 'Old World rats'. They are believed to have originated in Asia and reached other parts of the world, mostly on board ships.

One would mostly associate with Norway rats, they being the most common among others and likely to have originated in China. Norway rats populate cities like New York and London, and have spread through every nook and corner of the world with the rare exceptions of Arctic and Antarctic areas, Alberta in Canada, and a few places in New Zealand. The white albino rats, used for animal testing in labs and also kept as pets, are the domesticated version.

In India, these mammals are considered to be the vehicle of Lord Ganesha. As one travels to the northwestern Indian city of Deshnoke, one will find more than 20,000 rats at the Karni Mata Temple. They are destined to be reincarnated as Sadhus (Holy Hindu men). At this temple, it is believed that eating food that has been touched by rats is a blessing.

Identifiable Features

• Both the species of wild rats are not more than 15 to 16 inches in length.
• Norway rats are brown or gray in color, whereas roof rats are black in color.
• They have pointed noses and hairless feet.
• The tail is tapering, narrow, and scaly. The tail of the Norway rats is shorter than their body length, while that of roof rats is longer.
• Rats are generally not very big in size. On an average, males weigh between 500 to 550 gm, and females weigh between 300 to 335 gm, which is less than 1 pound.
• They appear large because when they are cornered, they fluff up their fur and chatter their teeth out of fear and intimidation, to scare away the predator. They are excellent swimmers, climbers (both vertically and horizontally), and jumpers.
• Even if they happen to fall from a height of 50 feet, they remain unhurt.

Diet

• Rats are omnivorous animals. Their diet consists fruits, seeds, cereals, nuts, grains, insects, worms, frogs, birds and smaller animals that they catch, reptiles, dead animals, and sometimes even other rats.
• Apart from eating the food that they come across, they also kill small animals and insects.
• City-dwelling rats scavenge food from garbage bins, landfills, and from any other places where scraps are available.
• They also need water to drink.
• Rats are typically food hoarders. They store more food than they need to eat and usually keep it near their dwellings.
• They try out different kinds of foods using a method called 'sampling', wherein they try small quantities of the new food to see if it suits their stomach.
• Brown rats that live in cities love to eat macaroni and cheese, scrambled eggs, and corn that is cooked. These are their favorite foods.

Habitat

• Rats love to live near garbage cans, in the sewers, in grasses that are tall and dense, under piles of wood that is mostly undisturbed, abandoned furniture, and any holes that are present in buildings.
• If they enter a house, they usually inhabit the walls or ceilings, insides of cupboards, behind heavy furniture, in attics, and also in basements.

Breeding

• Rats can breed after 9 to 12 weeks from birth.
• The females have heat cycles every 4 to 5 days. The heat begins in the evening and lasts through the night.
• A female rat can produce up to 13 litters in a year. The gestation period lasts for 21 to 24 days.
• The number of baby rats in the litter can vary between 7 to 10.
• Females reach menopause at 18 months of age, after which their litter size gradually decreases. The reproduction cycle decreases when the weather is very hot or very cold.
• Rats usually live in groups, with a large, dominating male protecting a group of females and not allowing any other male to mate with them, guarding them aggressively if necessary.

Lifespan and Predators

• Rats generally live for three years, but in the wild, most do not make it past the first year. On an average, their life expectancy is less than a year.
• Wild rats have a mortality rate of 95%. The main reason for this is predators like owls, hawks, weasels, snakes, dogs, and cats. They also die due to rat traps, rat poison, and becoming roadkill.

Relationship with Humans

• Wild rats are able to burrow, climb, jump, and gnaw. This ability along with the highly sophisticated senses that they possess helps them gain access to a variety of places.
• Their gnawing ability can cause damage to buildings, wiring systems, and pipe work.
• They also carry diseases like Weil's disease, toxoplasmosis, rat bite fever, and Q fever. They do not carry plague in them, as this will cause their death as well. Plague is caused due to fleas. It is extremely rare to contract rabies from a rat bite.

You can find out if there is a rat infestation on your property by keeping a lookout for signs such as burrows or trails in the garden, gnawing marks on furniture, wires, doors, or pipes, droppings, marks on the walls where their fur dirt or body oils are rubbed off, or any squeaking noises.

Getting Rid of Them

• To get rid of them from your home, you will need to eliminate their food source. Store all your food away, where they cannot reach it. Pack it up nicely; do not leave it out in the open.
• Clean your house with bleach to kill all the bacteria.
• Seal off any opening from where they may be accessing your house.
• There are many options of trapping rats, but the humane traps are better because they will not kill them. Remember, the rats are in your house because they found a safe and secure environment to dwell in, and found food and water for their survival, which is the basic instinct of any living being. However, if you do prefer killing them, then you can use rat traps or rat poison.
Pest Control Brooklyn

While cleaning your home, once you find an infestation, always wear gloves, full-sleeved shirts and full pants, boots, and cover your nose and mouth.
Never forget to wash your hands after cleaning or touching anything at the infestation sight.
Also, be careful if you have any recent wounds. It is never wrong to take utmost precaution so as not to fall ill.
If you encounter a rat, never ever corner it. As is instinctual in all wild animals, it may scratch or bite if it feels threatened by you. It is as scared of you as you are of it, possibly more.

Brooklyn Pest Control 

Things You May Not Know About Rats

• Rats have belly buttons.
• They don't sweat.
• They can survive after being flushed down the toilet.
• They eat their own feces for nutrition.
• Their teeth grow at the rate of 5 to 6 inches a year.
• The oldest living rat to be recorded in the Guinness Book of Records was 7 years and 4 months old.

Source  Buzzle: http://www.buzzle.com/articles/wild-rats.html

Friday, October 31, 2014

What you should know about this common household pest

House Mice

(Mus domesticus)

The house mouse is the most common rodent pest in most parts of the world. It can breed rapidly and adapt quickly to changing conditions.


House mice live in structures, but they can live outdoors.
Habitat

Habits:

House mice can breed throughout the year and can share nests.


Control / Prevention

To keep mice and other rodents out, make sure all holes of larger diameter than a pencil are sealed. Mice can squeeze through spaces as small as a nickel. Seal any cracks and voids. Don't overlook proper drainage at the foundation and always install gutters or diverts which will channel water away from the building.

Threats:

Micro droplets of mouse urine can cause allergies in children. Mice can also bring fleas, mites, ticks and lice into your home.

Pest Control Brooklyn 


Tuesday, October 14, 2014

Fruit Flies

All about Fruit Flies 

Fruit Flies

(Drosophila species)
Fruit flies feed on decaying fruits and vegetables.
Fruit flies are small pests that are commonly found in homes, restaurants and other facilities where food is processed. They are found on moist, decaying matter that has been stationary for several days.

Habits:

Fruit flies feed on decaying matter, especially fruits and vegetables.

Region:

Control / Prevention

Fruit flies are best prevented through vigilant sanitation practices. Remove kitchen trash daily, and keep counter surfaces clean.

Threats:

Fruit flies are found in unsanitary conditions, so they are a potential heath concern, especially when present in health facilities.

Friday, September 26, 2014

Wednesday, June 4, 2014

Termite Pest Control




Termite Control in the home






How do I know if I have termites?

The first step in prevention is to be on the alert for termites. Termites rarely emerge from soil, mud tubes, or food sources through which they are tunneling. Most people are not aware they have termites until they see a swarm or come across damage during construction. Some of the ways to discover if you have termites are listed below:
  • Look for mud tubes with smallcreamy-white insects
  • Examine, by probing, exposed wood for hollow spots (using a flathead screwdriver or similar tool)
  • Identify termite swarms (sometimes ant swarms are mistaken as termites)

    ANTTERMITE
    ant imagetermite image
  • antennae bent at ninety degree angle
  • antennae are straight; may droop
  • front wings longer than the hind wings
  • wings are roughly equal in length
The most common form of termite in most of the U.S. is the native subterranean termite (PDF) . Other, less common, types of termites include the smaller drywood termite and the invasive Formosan termite.

How can I prevent termite infestation?

Make the structure less attractive to termites

During construction, use a concrete foundation and leave a ventilation space between the soil and wood. Cover exposed wood surfaces with a sealant or metal barrier.

Maintain the termite prevention features

  • After construction, keep the soil around the foundation dry through proper grading and drainage (including maintenance of gutters and downspouts).
  • Reduce openings that offer termites access to the structure (filling cracks in cement foundations as well as around where utilities pass through the wall with cement, grout, or caulk).
  • Fix leaks immediately.
  • Keep vents free from blockage, including plants.
  • Ensure that trees and shrubs are not planted too close to the structure and do not allow them to grow against exposed wood surfaces.
  • Do not pile or store firewood or wood debris next to the house.
  • Inspect periodically to help ensure that termite colonies do not become established.

How do I handle a termite infestation?

  • Choose a pest control company carefully - Firms offering termite services must be licensed by your state. Ask to see the company’s license and, if you have any concerns, call your state pesticide regulatory agency . Please read our Citizen’s Guide to Pest Control & Safety (PDF) (53 pp, 4.18M, PDF) for more tips on how to choose a company that will do a good job.
  • Read the pesticide product label - The label tells you exactly how the product is to be used and provides information on potential risks. If the label does not include termiticide directions, then the product is not intended to treat termites and should not be applied. If you wish to see a copy of the product label, ask the company representative for a copy.
  • Be aware of the how soon you can return to the treated residence - The time required before the residence can be reoccupied will vary by product and will be indicated on product labels. Make sure the applicator has told you when you are allowed to reenter the building.

Source : http://www.epa.gov/pesticides/controlling/termite.html#know




Thursday, May 8, 2014

Pests and Allergies?



Pests and Allergies?

Missy Henriksen - National Pest Management Association

Sunday, May 4, 2014

The more I learn about pests, the less I like them! As if rodents and cockroaches aren’t gross enough to look at, and as if it’s not bad enough that they can transmit things like salmonella, E. coli, and Hantavirus, now there’s additional data to validate their role in negatively impacting those with asthma and allergies. Geez!  The latest information comes from a recent survey the National Pest Management Association did with the Asthma and Allergy Foundation of America (AAFA). The study was conducted with almost 500 allergists. Here’s what they said:

76 percent said, aside from dust mites, cockroaches are the most problematic household pest for patients suffering from asthma or allergies. More than half surveyed (57 percent) rank rodents as the second most problematic, and nearly two-thirds (63 percent) rank stinging insects as third.
95 percent regularly advise their patients to reduce their exposure to pest allergens in their homes.
90 percent would recommend that a patient with a pest problem consult with a pest management professional.
97 percent of allergists indicated a pest free home is important in preventing asthma and allergy symptoms.
So, for allergy and asthma sufferers, it doesn't look like an apple a day will keep the doctor away. But, a pest free home will! Further, the federal government has said that a pest free home is one of the primary components of a healthy home. Keeping bugs at bay may sound like an easy task but according to AAFA, 63 percent of U.S. homes have detectable levels of cockroach allergens, a number that increases dramatically in urban environments.

All these numbers serve as excellent reminders of the importance of seasonal pest proofing and good sanitation practices to make our homes unwelcoming to pests. Pest prevention begins with common sense and taking the time to make smart choices. If you don't already have a relationship with a pest management professional, this information from medical professionals may be just the encouragement you need to seek guidance from a company in your area. Remember, professionals aren't just there when there’s a problem – they can help prevent pests in the first place!

Source:
http://www.pestworld.org/news-and-views/the-bug-lady/posts/pests-and-allergies/




Wednesday, May 7, 2014

Ant Control

Written:
by Barb Ogg, PhD, Extension Educator
http://lancaster.unl.edu/pest/resources/antcontrol003.shtml
by Barb Ogg, PhD, Extension Educator
"How can I get rid of ants in my house?" . . . . .is one of the most common homeowner complaints heard by insect pest control specialists. Ants invade the home to forage for food or seek shelter or both. This Web site explains ant behavior and provides control tips so you, the homeowner, are better equipped to deal with this pest.
Behavior
All ants live in colonies, consisting of an egg-laying female (queen), short-lived males, and workers (sterile females). The ants you see foraging in your garden or kitchen are workers. Workers that find food communicate with other workers by depositing a chemical message on the substrate as they crawl back to the nest. Although we cannot smell it, this "trail pheromone" sticks to the substrate for long periods of time and helps other ants find the food at the end of the trail.
In the spring, ants develop wings and fly to new locations and invade homes to forage for food or to establish a new nest.
Termites also develop wings and swarm during the spring and look similar to flying ants. Examine them closely to make sure that you have the correct pest! Ants are thin-waisted and have elbowed antennae. Termites have thicker waists and have antennae that resemble strings of tiny beads. You may need a magnifying glass to examine antennal features.
As a group, ants have a wide food range, feeding on sweet foods, greasy materials, starchy substances, wood, and all kinds of plant and animal materials. Part of the reason that ants become a nuisance in our homes is that they often like the same kinds of food that we do. 
Control 
There are two categories of ants that will be encountered with an ant problem. The control strategy that you should take depends on your type of infestation. 
Ants that live outside and forage in the home.
Ants that live outside will travel inside the home to search for food. Some species may ultimately reside in houses, discussed later in this fact sheet. To prevent both of these scenarios, follow these procedures:
  • First, cracks and crevices should be sealed to eliminate passages into the home. If you do not seal entry points, ants will probably find their way into your house at some later time.
  • Second, scrub around entry points with a detergent (to remove the trail pheromone) and spray a residual insecticide around entry points. 
Bait treatments and insecticides can be used to control ants in the outside nest. To be effective baits must be placed in areas where ants frequent, eaten and be taken back to the nest. There are several different kinds of baits available, and you may have to do a little trial-and-error to find the proper bait. Because the ants must get back to the nest for satisfactory control this strategy may be incompatible with insecticide sprays which may kill worker ants before they can get back to the nest with the bait. The successful use of a bait may take several weeks or more.
Insecticide dilutions can be used outside to successfully drench ant nests. Be sure to follow label recommendations for correct procedures when applying the insecticide. 
Ants that live (nest) inside your home.
Yes, there are some types of ants that actually establish a nest inside your home instead of merely entering to forage for food and returning outdoors. Ants in this category may be present year round, although they will be more active in the warmer months. Ant species that may live in Nebraska homes include crazy ants, odorous house ants, pavement ants, pharaoh ants, thief ants, and carpenter ants. All of these ants may infest food products. Spraying a residual insecticide to control foraging workers may provide only short-term control. Even when over 99 percent of foraging workers are killed by insecticide sprays, the colony may rebuild to its original numbers. Location and total destruction of the nest is the most direct way to eliminate this ant infestation. 
Ant baits, described above, can again be a useful tool in eradicating inside-the-home ant nests, although baits may not work as well with carpenter ants as the other species mentioned. Again, workers must eat the bait, take it back to the nest, and feed to the queen and larval ants. This type of control is incompatible with treatments that prevent workers from returning to the nest with the bait.
Unlike other home-inhabiting ants, carpenter ants cause structural damage to wood by tunnelling and nesting inside wood structures. However, they rarely nest in sound wood, but consistently invade wood that has become wet and started to decay. Carpenter ants are large (about 3/8 to 1/2" long) and black or red. 
The best way to control carpenter ants that inhabit a dwelling is to find the nest and destroy it. Insecticide sprays inside the home will kill some of the worker ants, but unless the entire nest is treated, the queen will continue to produce additional members of the colony. Locating a nest can be difficult because nests may be in locations within the walls or roof rafters. At this point, some homeowners may prefer to work with a professional pest control company. The most likely places to find carpenter ant nests are where wood has been wet and weathered, such as rotting timbers about the foundation, window sills, porches, around leaky plumbing, and in rafters under a leaky roof. 
Carpenter ants are most active in the evening hours foraging for all kinds of food, both inside the house and outside. By following ants, you may be able to tell where the nest is. Because carpenter ants keep the tunnelled galleries very clean and push the sawdust and dead insect parts out small holes in the wood, a small, fresh pile of sawdust under the nest timber is the usual sign of an active carpenter ant nest. Once a nest is found, treatment is usually easy with either an insecticide dust or spray. Injection of insecticide into wall voids or the nest itself may be necessary to insure complete control. 
To prevent further carpenter ant infestations, trim all trees and bushes so branches do not touch the house and correct moisture problems such as leaky roofs and plumbing. Paint and/or seal exposed wood construction before it becomes wet. Replace previously ant-infested wood, rotted, or water-damaged wooden parts of the structure and eliminate wood/soil contacts. Remove dead stumps on the property and store firewood off the ground and away from the structure. 
Carpenter Ant Queen
Ants are a major annoyance to homeowners and are difficult to control. You should not underestimate the importance of good sanitation to eliminate food sources, although good sanitation may not control an ant infestation by itself. 
Although we do not like sharing our homes with ants, they are beneficial organisms in the balance of nature. In nature, ants greatly reduce the amount of dead and decaying plant and animal organic matter. They also aerate the soil with their nests. Many ant species have a fondness for honeydew that aphids produce from feeding on plants. Large numbers of ants crawling on a plant may be a sign of serious aphid infestation. 
Ant infestation are not easy to control and different strategies should be used depending on nest location and food preferences of the ants. Ants can be controlled with a combination of good sanitation, removing pheromone trails, caulking entry points and eliminating active nests. Insecticide sprays and baits can be used to kill foraging ants and destroy nests, but strategies designed to prevent further infestations should be used in conjunction with chemical treatment.
Written:
by Barb Ogg, PhD, Extension Educator
http://lancaster.unl.edu/pest/resources/antcontrol003.shtml

Monday, February 24, 2014

Tips For Keeping Rodents Out Of Your Home


Here are some tips to keep rodents from making themselves at home:
Rodents like dark places. They will search for food in kitchens and pantries, too.  Attics, basements and garages are most susceptible. 
Mice and Rats are most active at night while your household is asleep. But they also will get busy during the day, especially to seek food.  Mice and rats are nocturnal. 
Check for any signs if you've had visitors and where they've been. One mouse can expel 40 to 100 droppings a day. A mouse dropping is less than 1/4 inch long with one or both ends pointed. Rat droppings are 1/2- to 3/4-inch long. Roof rats scatter their curved, sausage-shaped droppings with pointed ends. Norway rats tend to leave their rectangular droppings, which have blunt ends, in small groups.
Rodents don't need big holes to get inside. “A mouse can squeeze through a hole the width of a pencil even smaller, Rats need only a hole the size of a quarter. So Block any entrances where they may enter. 
One pair of rats can lead to up to 1,500 young in a single year. They can reproduce at 3 months of age. A rat can have 12 offspring a litter and seven litters a year.  Get rid of them ASAP. 
When baiting traps, use food rodents prefer: dried fruit, unshelled nuts (such as peanuts) or dog food. With thread, fine wire or glue, attach the food to the trap so the rodent can't free the bait without getting caught.
Schedule an inspection today 

Spring is Almost Here !


Don't let pests stop you from enjoying your home! Quick Solution Pest Control takes pride  on being a leader of using low toxicity materials to gain control of pests. Our Priority is to protect your family. We are committed to solve your problem as quickly as possible.   

We specializes in:
Termites
Rodents
Carpenter Bee, Wasp, and Hornets
Carpenter Ants
Fleas
Mosquitoes
Bed Bugs
Ticks
Take the first step to having a pest-free home! Call us today for an inspection at 718-713-4940

Tuesday, February 11, 2014

History of Bed Bugs

Early History of Bed Bugs in America



Bed bugs were first introduced into the Americas by the early colonists. Colonial writings of the early 18th century documented severe bed bug problems in the English colonies and in Canada, but not in Indian villages.

Old sailing ships were notoriously infested with bed bugs, some so much so that some ships forbade passengers and colonists from bringing bedding on board.

During the early 20th century, it was a rare American indeed who had never been bitten or at least seen a bed bug. Bed bugs were rated among the top three pests in and around structures.
Surveys showed that as many as 1/3 of all residences were infested in some cities. In lower income areas, virtually all residences had bed bugs at one time or another. In these areas, bed bugs were “public enemy number one.”

Source: www.techletter.com